I took a redeye from Vegas and rolled into New Orleans by 10am. I was very happy to see my two favorite eating spots were open(Check In/Check Out and Kenner Seafood Company), even if the hours were reduced, as much of the area businesses were doing. I was amazed at the activity and the good vibe I felt. I headed straight to my old haunt Tipitinas(were I photographed many great shows www.tipitinas.com) and found NPR was setting up for a New Years show broadcast. I paid my respects and headed to the French Quarter. I was fortunate that by 1:30pm I was allowed to check into my hotel , The Prince Conti. After a quick hour and a half nap I was having my coffee and begnets at Café Du Monde. I then hit Music Factory were I ran into the infamous John Sinclair, beat poet and former manager of MC5, the Detroit band who was discovered at the same show with Iggy Pop and the Stooges. I picked up a great blues CD by Jimmy Reed and talked about the late great Wayne Bennett who played on some of Reed’s records as well as Bobby Blue Bland and Mighty Sam McClain. I had met Bennett and photographed him sitting in with Otis Clay, Eddie Bo and Buddy Guy.
I stopped by the House of Blues and made sure all was well for my photo pass and ran into my old friend Chopper Brady who did sound for Tipitinas and HOB. He is now at HOB headquarters in LA. Then it was off to NOLA and dinner with Kieth Sharp who did the Florida benefit for New Orleans musicians (see our review here) who was in town to drop off a check to the Tipitinas Foundation and catch
Dr John‘s show. Speaking of Dr John. The show was sold out. HOB was 2 for 2 having opened the previous night for the first time since Katrina. Cowboy Mouth did the honors the first night.
“What a Night” as Dr John’s song describes. It was! The spirit of New Orleans was back. And much of New Orleans royalty came out to celebrate. Most notable was Jazz Fest promoter Quint Davis who was up on his feet dancing all night. People were celebrating, second -lining. It was Mardi Gras a few weeks early. Dr John is such a legend. He worked with Phil Spector as a session player and in production. Most notable projects included Sonny and Cher and Sam Cooke. Mick Jagger and Eric Clapton became huge fans and played on some of his early records. The Doctor gave some great commentary during the show. He particularly let the politicians have it:
“I have been in the psych ward with Napolean and Geraldine and I am qualified to say that politicians are the ones that belong in the psych ward. I don’t give a damn about politicians.” He went on to praise Trombone Shorty Andrews who came from the 9th Ward hardest hit by Katrina. Saying “People like him are the backbone of New Orleans.” Shorty sat in on several numbers.
Dr John played “Right Place Wrong Time” his funk anthem. Recall the guitar signed by the Meters auctioned at the benefit. They played on that record back in 1973. The Meters will open for the Rolling Stones in March. Is there any doubt about how serious this music is? Professor Longhair, James Booker, Champion Jack Dupree, Art Neville, Al Broussard, Eddie Bo all New Orleans piano players over the years carrying the torch with Dr John. Opener John Cleary warmed up the crowd this night. And yes, another great piano player did support honors for Cleary, David Torkanowsky.
The next morning I hit the Cafe again before working my way down Elisian Fields and I-10. It was then I finally saw the destruction in East New Orleans. It was like Love Canal, an imfamous superfund site. Washed out and deserted for miles. Nothing prepared me for what I was about to see in Bay St Louis, Mississippi. Only a few pictures can describe this scene, least we not forget. Among them is a lone Christmas tree with a giant teddy bear leaning up against it. In the background are the bay with some pilings, all that remains of the Dock of the Bay club and restaurant. This is where I had seen Dr John play back in 1988. In addition to the slabs and bare,bent trees I was most affected by the spirit of hope and rebuilding. People getting on with there lives. The photo with the men sitting on the couch is at a Baptist Church that had become a distribution center. Many people coming by to get food and clothing. All of this was donated by citizens, none was from the government. The Red Cross had left long ago. The trailer next to a slab is all that remains of a beachfront community home. The family is guarding their property.The white house with caved walls on stilts use to be my home. Many homes had signs proclaiming “We are Staying.” Some were in tents without sewer, water or electricity thus they could not qualify for FEMA trailers. This is four months after Katrina.While in New Orleans many talked of how music will be what brings this area back. It was said that U2 had committed to play the Jazz Fest and that Sir Paul McCartney wanted to come. Regardless, you can take to the bank I’ll be back for that.
