This was my fourth festival in Telluride since 1990. Even my memories from those times could not represent the reality of the beautiful towering mountain peaks that surround this former mining town. There are only 9,000 fans allowed each day so there is a great sense of community like at Bonnaroo but on a much more intimate scale. The first day brought with it a rainy evening where I managed to make the Back Door Slam show at the Fly Me to the Moon Saloon. Hailing from the UK, BDS, has been making the rounds on late night TV and the festival circuit, resurrecting a British blues mix from the 60’s. Opener John Alex Mason provided an excellent new style playing an instrument made from broomsticks and a cigar box.
The next morning I was awakened at 7:30 am by guitarist Ryan McGarvey to tell me the mountains looked like the Swiss Alps. After rousing, the descent in the gondola from the Mountain Village down to Telluride provided a magnificent view of the new snow on the distant peaks.The outdoor festival started off with a bang as Mamas Cookin got people in a boogie mood. Back Door then followed up and there was no question they had been accepted into the fold by the hardcore blues fans in attendance. The rest of the day progressed as Canned Heat played their classic songs and Susan Tedeschi provided an impassioned vocal performance causing Joan Osborne to comment that she had a hard act to follow. Joan amped it up and did not disappoint. John Hiatt , whom I had seen at Jazz Fest a few years ago, was much more animated and brought me on board as a new fan. The night shows known as Juke Joints reminded me of SXSW. It brought difficult choices for the fans as several excellent shows were happening at the same time. I had to go with my New Orleans loyalties and make the Bryan Lee affair at the Opera House. The blind guitar player, who was a staple at the Old Absinthe House on Bourbon Street for many years, has had many stars sit in or attend his shows. I have heard members of Led Zeppelin were among the notables. He was also recently featured in a film with Kenny Wayne Shepherd.
Among the new artists the festival presented was Trampled Under Foot; they are the International Blues Challenge winner. Lead singer Danielle Schnebelen almost appeared in pain as she belted out emotional, danceable blues. She affected me the same way as Grace Potter did when I first saw her two years ago. Saturday turned into a Mardi Gras celebration as Big Sams Funky Nation hit the stage. Costumed dancers supplemented the party atmosphere on stage while masked entertainers walked around in the crowd elevated on stilts. They lead a second line parade of fans and other characters. Dwayne Dopsie followed with his rowdy Zydeco, further whipping up the audience into a frenzy. In between sets, Ryan McGarvey, on the acustic guitar and dobro, gave a little taste of what he can do. G. Love was seen in the audience clapping his approval. Australian guitar impresario John Butler then showed why his unique style has become a festival favorite all over the world. The daytime festivities ended with G. Love and Special Sauce doing his unique blend of danceable rap jam and then Warren Haynes and Govt Mule playing a great set.
While Saturday night was again loaded with great entertainment there was nowhere I wanted to be other than the Opera House and Ryan McGarveys four plus hour set. His blistering slide and lead left me no doubt that the world needs to know about this rare talent. I have seen many of the greats like Clapton, Jeff Beck, Dwayne Allman, Warren and Derrick. McGarveys tribute to Hendrix ended with Are You Experienced and was perhaps the best guitar work I have ever seen in my life time. He is only 21 years old and the word is getting out. For any guitar lover he is a must see. I think his appeal will reach much wider over the next few years.
Sunday brought the final day and the 8,700 foot altitude was taking its toll. I didn’t make it out until almost 2pm. Just in time to catch Chris Thomas Kings set followed by The Dirty Dozen Brass Band. Heck, I felt like I was at Jazz Fest again. Derrick Trucks showed why he is the best slide player around. I had seen him in New Orleans when he was 14 years old and again 2 years ago with Clapton. It was at Claptons show that I could see the torch being passed to the new generation of guitar players. The outdoor Fest concluded with blues legend Etta James. What a personality she had! She is a naughty girl even into her later years. One photo I took shows her demonstrating how she pleases her man. I loved it!
After four days there was one more show to attend. The after party and I managed to catch Reverend Peytons Big Damn Band. The Rev was a combination of hillbilly zydeco and Flogging Molly bravado. Those who like bands backed by wild drummers will like this band, too. As the festival concluded I thought back on my impressions. This is a blues festival but much more. My hope for next year is that there will be more jams. In 1997 I was here for Bluegrass. Then, you had Mary Chapin Carpenter, Shaun Colvin and Bela Fleck jamming in the little downtown park. That was the way of the old blues players. I hope that way comes back. I managed to catch the last gondola back to the Mountain Village. It was a surreal, spiritual experience as I rode alone and saw the landscapes lit up by a full moon from 10,000 feet. A fitting way to end one of the best festivals in the world.
